The Tirol is the westernmost region of Austria, bordered by Germany to the north, Switzerland to the west and Italy to the south. Its highest peak is the 3772 m Wildspitze and generally its mountains are lower than the western Alps, with few large glaciers. Still, it’s a truly Alpine region, highly rated by climbers, walkers and skiers as well as bikers. As in other Alpine areas, cycling, and mountain biking in particular, is developing strongly as a way of exploiting the ski-oriented infrastructure in summer.
Unlike the typically brash, ugly French ski resorts, Austria’s mountain villages have worked hard to maintain their character and charm. Though the chalet-style architecture and flower-filled window-boxes may look quaint, accommodation is of a high standard and the infrastructure is excellent, especially public transport. Like other Alpine regions, there are high mountain huts all over the place, meaning that after a long climb there’s usually a cosy refuge offering everything from a cup of tea or ‘sports beer’ to full meals and overnight accommodation.
My first taste of the region was a brief visit to the idyllic Lechtal, close to the German border, where we enjoyed a day’s easy but scenically stunning mountain biking, plus a gentle ride along delightful traffic-free trails on the flat valley floor. I was smitten and jumped at the chance to return, which came in the form of a week's riding based in Alpbach and organised by Fast Tracks MTB.
Unlike the Lechtal experience, this was aimed at experienced, though not necessarily expert, mountain bikers. After a shakedown ride on the day of arrival, the area showed its teeth on Day 2 with a climb of more than 1000m from the Inn valley to the Bayreuther Hutte, perched spectacularly among high pastures below rocky peaks.
The real reward for the long climb came on the descent, following stony tracks that snaked through the pastures before zig-zagging down the steep mountainside, with some of the hairpins perched above big drops for added spice. Never too difficult, the trail kept us entertained right down to the valley. With big grins all round, we rolled across the valley to coffee and cakes in the lovely old city of Rattenberg.
The following day we embarked for an overnight tour, first taking trains to Innsbruck and then on to Scharnitz. A steep but shortish climb led into the hanging Karwendel valley, hemmed in by jagged peaks, but the clouds were closing in and it was raining before we began the final 500m ascent to the Karwendelhaus, which stands on a broad pass at 1765m altitude.
Naturally the hut had a drying-room, and we were all fortified by an excellent meal and a good night’s sleep, but the weather closed in further and we had to brush snow off the bikes in the morning. The projected route for the day, over two more high passes, was ruled out and we had no option but to make a rapid - but chilly!- descent back to Scharnitz.
With the snowline almost down to 1000m, many trails were unavailable for the rest of the week, but thanks to careful planning by Fast Tracks’ Darren and his local compadres, we still rode every day. The usual menu was steady, grinding fire-road climbs and absorbing singletrack descents, but we would have liked more chance to enjoy some high, contour-hugging trails.
On the last day we made use of the Alpbach gondola to stack in several storming singletrack descents, where it was easy to see how most people’s riding had improved markedly during the week. By running repeat sessions on some testing sections we were able to hike up the skill level even further.
Despite the weather, everyone had a great time, but we were all aware how much more we might have packed in: in the corresponding week in 2006, temperatures had been nudging the 30s Celsius rather Fahrenheit! But that's mountains for you and if you're heading that way, at any time of year, make sure you have clothing to cope with all conditions.
One final conclusion, for anyone contemplating taking their own bikes on a trip of this kind, the long and often steep descents make disc brakes virtually essential. On V-brakes it would be a question of which gives out first, hands or brake blocks!
Jon Sparks - I am a professional photographer and writer based in the little town of Garstang in the beautiful English county of Lancashire. I’ve ...
